How To Remove Boat Steering Wheel

• #1

Thought I would post this since a wheel puller won't fit and all the online folks claim that striking the center shaft with a hammer while pulling will dislodge it. It wont.
A little heat with a mini torch and an air hammer on the center shaft while pullingEz-Pz.

• #2

Replacing the steering box?

• #three

Replacing the steering box?

Hopefully just replacing the shaft bushing. Squeaky and has a footling play.

• #4

were yous able to get the bushing? If so, from whom?

• #5

Unfortunately the THT lore is not truthful. There is no bushing. However one can supercede the assembly for a mere $300 or a THT fellow claims ninety% of the motion can be eliminated with a contumely washer behind the snap band. I retrieve I'll try option "b" 1st.

• #half dozen

That was my understanding for the mechanical boxes but I thought that the steering mentioned was hydraulic. Don't know where that idea came from.

• #7

There is no bushing merely there is a seal. If y'all leak fluid out the front of the shaft that seal can exist replaced.

Glad you got the wheel off. I had to destroy the plastic embrace of the tilt mechanism to go a puller backside the cycle.

Mine had some black electric tape on shaft from PO to make it not wobble. I need to put some in that location because everything is new and the whell nevertheless wobbles & squeaks slightly

• #viii

There is no bushing only at that place is a seal. If you lot leak fluid out the front of the shaft that seal tin be replaced.

Glad you lot got the cycle off. I had to destroy the plastic cover of the tilt machinery to get a puller behind the wheel.

Mine had some black electric tape on shaft from PO to arrive not wobble. I need to put some there considering everything is new and the whell nonetheless wobbles & squeaks slightly

Wobbles and squeaks?

Mine did that and then totally seized upwards. Information technology turned out a commodities within the tilt had backed out and lodged in the works. You lot might want to check it once again. YMMV

• #ix

Wobbles and squeaks?

Mine did that and and then totally seized up. It turned out a bolt within the tilt had backed out and lodged in the works. You might want to check information technology once more. YMMV

no, its admittedly just play of the wheel on the shaft. Helm is brand new. The cycle is original. Doesn't seat tight enough on the shaft

• #10

At that place is no bushing but there is a seal. If y'all leak fluid out the front of the shaft that seal tin exist replaced.

Glad you lot got the wheel off. I had to destroy the plastic cover of the tilt mechanism to get a puller backside the wheel.

Mine had some black electric tape on shaft from PO to brand information technology not wobble. I demand to put some there because everything is new and the whell all the same wobbles & squeaks slightly

I'1000 going to try to shim mine now. I'll let you all know if information technology accomplishes anything.

• #11

I really just replaced my helm with a new one. I went to AutoZone and found a wheel puller that worked. My old wheel fitted snugly on the new seastar one.7 tilt helm. Practiced luck .

• #12

They have a plastic like bushing to the wheel doesn't wobble. when the bushing wears the wheel will wobble somewhat.

• #thirteen

Aye, AutoZone has the pocket-size puller that won't damage the plastic. I ended upwardly ownership it vs renting. Helm wasn't hard to rebuild.

• #14

They accept a plastic like bushing to the wheel doesn't wobble. when the bushing wears the bike volition wobble somewhat.

Is yours the fixed mount or tilt? I've read fixed mountain has a replaceable bushing, while the tilt mode does not.

• #15

I actually simply replaced my helm with a new one. I went to AutoZone and institute a bike puller that worked. My old cycle fitted snugly on the new seastar 1.7 tilt helm. Skilful luck .

Curious to know what style assembly yous take. My tilt assembly at best has 1/16" clearance to get under it. No puller exist to enable getting nether it either externally or internally.

• #sixteen

I shimmed upwards the steering shaft perfectly, merely it can never be that easy. I had to use a bronze thrust washer to make this happen. The galvanic charts suggest bronze can not be in contact with aluminum. I believe the tilt housing is aluminum (demand to put a magnet on it)and the bronze washer is touching it, so it needs to come back apart. I swear I've seen bronze swaged fittings in my motorcycle frames, but possibly I'k mistaken.
Anyone have feel with a lubricated bronze part in contact with Aluminum? I've wondered if the lube volition sufficiently isolate the materials. Seasick, what say you?

• #17

Curious to know what style assembly you have. My tilt assembly at best has 1/16" clearance to go under it. No puller be to enable getting under it either externally or internally.

The plastic moves a trivial. I have the same assembly and the small puller worked just fine.

• #18

Is yours the stock-still mount or tilt? I've read fixed mount has a replaceable bushing, while the tilt manner does not.

This was in my one-time 228 and it was tilt helm, I had a bush-league made on the lathe from similar material, she still good until I sold the boat .

Last edited: Jun 17, 2022

• #19

Curious to know what fashion assembly y'all take. My tilt assembly at all-time has 1/16" clearance to go under information technology. No puller be to enable getting under it either externally or internally.

The puller I got has a harden bolt in the heart and these 3 legs that bridge out and have claw finger similar that hooks under the spokes of the wheel. The center cap of the wheel pops off and the bolt in the middle pushes confronting the top of the shaft. I took a wrench and turned it until the cycle popped.

Source: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/steering-wheel-removal-from-seastar-helm.29950/

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